Xantia suspension + running temp.

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Chris Peddie
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Xantia suspension + running temp.

Postby Chris Peddie » Sun Apr 29, 2001 5:17 pm

Hello to everyone,
I have recently had all 6 spheres changed on my '96 TD and the ride is much improved (and ticking from accumulator gone) although still not as good as when I bought the car, but:
The rear of the car now seems to be riding too high in normal, and doesn't always rise immediately from lowest position - need to move lever back and forth to raise sometimes. I think this may be a height corrector problem, but I don't know if the garage would have bled the system (they aren't citroen specialists and implied it wasn't necessary to depressurise the system to change them) after fitting new spheres - could this affect the ride?
Also, in the normal/high position, the suspension is solid, and raising to maximum doesn't raise it any more - seems like the car is raising to maximum in the normal/high position instead. I assume this may also be a height corrector problem.
Finally, I am also slightly concerned over the running temp (96' 1.9TD with A/C) of the engine driving up hills or fast/slow/fast/slow driving on a motorway. It often reaches 100+ on the gauge even without the A/C on but cools to 80/85 once driving normally again, coolant was changed last summer, thermostat is newish. I'm hoping this is normal and not an air lock or something!
Any help/comments/experience of these problems would be gratefully recieved, sorry to go on a bit!
Cheers, Chris
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Dave Bamber
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Postby Dave Bamber » Sun Apr 29, 2001 7:34 pm

Hi Chris.
It might be a good idea to check the the linkage at the rear height corrector. My old '93BX a similar problem. The cause was a small brass bush which the rod controlling the height corrector pivots in had seized. I could only raise the back manually. I removed the rods, cleaned them up, refitted and end of problem. I don't know if the set up is the same on a Xantia. Might be worth a look. I remember reading somewere that a small plastic clip on the height corrector on the Xantia can break and cause the rear suspention stop playing. Can anybody confirm this?
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Jon
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Postby Jon » Mon Apr 30, 2001 5:05 pm

Dave's right about the rear height corrector, there is a small plastic ballcup type linkage that wears/falls off. Check that this is intact.
I always bleed system after changing spheres!
With car in high position, open and close bleed valve on pressure regulator, you will need a small 12mm spanner. With engine running, and in high, turn the bleed about 1/2 a turn open and shut about 10 times in a row, this will purge any air from the system.
With regards to your temp problem, should not really get past about 93 degrees in trafic. Probably a good idea to check that the fans are cutting in, they should come in at around this temp, if not, thermo switch probably requires renewing I'm thinking.
Jon W
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David W
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Postby David W » Mon Apr 30, 2001 5:58 pm

Chris,
It is common for a '96 Xantia height control linkage to seize/stick. Such cars with the sixth "anti-sink" sphere are rarely exercised through the full suspension range, unlike the early cars and BXs that sink fully most days. It is possible that the garage have prompted this as they would have moved the suspension to high to carry out this work and now it is tending to stick there. The same has happened to Dad's '97 Xantia after I serviced it this weekend, in particular at the back. To temp solve it I just moved the lever from low to high a few times and allowed the car to move up and down, then finally bringing it to normal from low. This seems to stick less than trying to set normal after high. Next time I see the car I will strip and grease the links. Hope this helps.
David
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Grant Withington
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Postby Grant Withington » Tue May 01, 2001 2:46 am

Hi
I've got a '96 estate turbo, and the temp guage was very erratic,going up to 110 deg when towing the caravan up hills. The radiator was slight corroded along the bottom header, and was loosing approx 1 pint in 2000 miles. When replacing radiator, I noticed the radiator was about 70% blocked by debris inside the fins. If your radiator is not leaking, I suggest taking it off, and cleaning the fins with a pressure washer. The inter cooler was also blocked by debris, but a quick clean had the ccoling back to normal what ever the conditions, and a healthy boost in power.
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Chris Peddie
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Postby Chris Peddie » Tue May 08, 2001 9:32 pm

Hi all,
Thanks for all the advice, I'll check these out and post some results when I have them. The rad does have a small hole in the back so it will need changed soon, but isn't loosing much coolant (yet) but I suppose after 112,000 miles it probably is a bit bunged up on the outside.
Cheers, Chris
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Chris Peddie
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Postby Chris Peddie » Sat May 19, 2001 5:45 pm

Hi all,
I've had the rad out and cleaned it now, it was 75% blocked with dust etc. on the front. The temp now fluctuates at 80-85 in all conditions (so far).
Will try bleeding the hydraulics this w/e, it has also now taken to sinking front and back over a day or two parked up. Is this normal for an anti-sink model?
Is it detrimental to have too much LHM in the car (the garage I notice have over-filled it)?
Cheers,
Chris
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akojic
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Postby akojic » Sun Aug 31, 2003 3:38 am

I'd like someone to confirm Jon's statement about bleeding the system by opening of 12mm valve while motor is running and Xantia is in the highest position. Is it the right way? If all sphere are OK (not ruptured) is it the hose that connects HP and high pressure regulator spot where I might expect air to come in system?
Thanks
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Jon</i>

Dave's right about the rear height corrector, there is a small plastic ballcup type linkage that wears/falls off. Check that this is intact.
I always bleed system after changing spheres!
With car in high position, open and close bleed valve on pressure regulator, you will need a small 12mm spanner. With engine running, and in high, turn the bleed about 1/2 a turn open and shut about 10 times in a row, this will purge any air from the system.
With regards to your temp problem, should not really get past about 93 degrees in trafic. Probably a good idea to check that the fans are cutting in, they should come in at around this temp, if not, thermo switch probably requires renewing I'm thinking.
Jon W

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
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Niek
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Postby Niek » Sun Aug 31, 2003 4:13 am

I've never tried to bleed the system that way. And I've never had problems [8D] that weren't related to clogged up HCs. (Bx for four years, Xm two) I don't see why you would have to anyway as it's an open system, ie all the 'trapped' air will find its way to the reservoir naturally with the lowering and raising of the car. This doesn't, for obvious reasons, apply to the brakes which need to be bled if you've had them off or the calipers apart because they are dead-ends.
Niek.
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