ax brakes

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woodhead722
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ax brakes

Post by woodhead722 » 24 Mar 2002, 06:33

back n/s side locks quite easily. both drums & shoes cleaned up (o/s was a bit mucky & smeared ) no leaks evident. Front pads & discs clean .
During difficulty removing drum I yanked Hand brake sharply to try and centralise and now h/brake lever is very high and h/brake poor. T- piece under lever not level despite adjusting cables which seemed to have no effect.
Adjusted to make outer cables long as poss, but h/brake still very poor (o/side poor,n/s worse).Both inner cables unbroken.
Completely confused now with h/brake.
Any suggestions please?
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Dave Burns
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Post by Dave Burns » 25 Mar 2002, 00:53

You need to either manually adjust the shoes to get them as close to the drum as possible without them rubbing, or make sure the auto adjusters are working properly, I personaly ignore auto adjusters and do it my self, I can get the shoes much closer to the drum and I get less brake pedal travel as a result.
If the shoes have to travel to far when you pull the brake on you will lose some leverage inside the drum and have a less powerful parking brake as a result.
Going by the difficulty you had in getting the drum off it sounds like there is a lip on the inside, if you know how the adjuster works you should be able to back it off through one of the wheel bolt holes.
If there has been any oil/grease contamination of the linings this can produce a tacky film, which can grab the drum and cause lock ups.
Good Luck
Dave
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woodhead722
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Post by woodhead722 » 26 Mar 2002, 01:47

Thanks Dave.I see you're still as helpful.I enquired in Oct last about Diesel starting and who replied ? Yes your good self,not a full time job is it?
Back to the ax. It may be adjusters not working, and I will buy some new shoes,although the pedal does not seem low. I am still wondering if there is anything under the lever which I may have forced / stretched. I am sniffing round to see if anyone will skim the drums before the new shoes go in. Alternate treatment may be to gently clean up with a flap wheel.
Thanks again !!
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Dave Burns
Posts: 1916
Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
Location: United Kingdom
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Post by Dave Burns » 26 Mar 2002, 04:45

Hi Steve, as for machining the drum's I would advise against it, unless they are absolutely bang on true you will get awfull pedal feedback and an even greater risk of lock up.
If they are still within tollerance you could simply grind the lip off, then glaze bust them with some emery cloth.
If theyr'e knackered they aren't too expensive, though I suppose like most other small drum brakes now days they have the bearing's in them, it start's to get expensive when you add up all the part's you actualy need.
I had a 205 where the pressing cracked that the handbrake lever was bolted to, that was before is first m.o.t.
So I would give it a good looking at because it's not bolted to a girder down there.
When you put the new shoes in make sure the handbrake mechanism inside the drum returns to the full off position, the cable adjusters should only be used to take the slack out of the cable.
Good luck
Dave
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woodhead722
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Post by woodhead722 » 28 Mar 2002, 06:16

Hi Dave. You've cracked it again! I replaced the shoes and noticed the adjusters were seized.
I could hear those reassuring clicks when the brake was pressed first time with the drums on the new shoes.
Little pedal travel, decent halting, but likely to be excellent after bedding in, I feel.
Adjusted cables and hey presto tight parking after about 5 clicks.Never did understand that problem though !!
Thanks again.....Steve
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